Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Toute La Foret by Rosine c1911

Toute La Foret by Rosine: launched in 1911. 

The name means "The Whole Forest". Created to evoke memories of happy hours in Fontainebleau, with a scent of undergrowth (herbal and forest flowers). Raoul Dufy created a stylized print of leaves and birds used for promotional items including scented cards.

The perfume was a favorite of American actress Mary Pickford.







Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woodsy floral fougere fragrance for women with a dominant lily of the valley note. It was suggested to be worn specifically with sportswear, but could certainly appeal to men as well. It was described as having the scent of "old leaves, that rich, damp smell of woods in autumn, boxwood, pine trees and oakmoss". "The pungent tang of pine, the bittersweet smell of boxwood, the exquisite air of the white violets, in this one breath of the forest."
  • Top notes: bergamot, sweet pea, hyacinth, lily of the valley, mint, lavender
  • Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, narcissus, white violet, rose, carnation, spices, thyme
  • Base notes: ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, cedar, pine, oakmoss, boxwood, fern, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver


Commissioned by Poiret, his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel wrote a poem about the perfume entitled "Toute la Foret or The Whole Forest"
The aroma of a lily of the valley, a hint of wild fern and also the scent of wet grass. One dreams of cool mornings in the woods, of their green depths, of the silent ponds asleep under the branches. The air is biting, sharp, flowing, delicious. one dreams of spring awakenings, of juvenile surges, of the shimmering, beautiful days. But mostly one dreams of the secret path, of the stark bench, of dear and familiar footsteps. Yes, really, it is the same scent, subtle and invigorating, the perfume of humid moss, of buds about to open, of water streaming through mint and thyme, the same breath, pure and ethereal, having rushed through the quivering foliage bringing happiness, the caress of dawn, the exuberance of burgeoning love.


Toute la Foret was advertised as "lily of the valley in the heart of the spring forest."


Spicy, clean, refreshing, this country-like scent created by Paul Poiret, the famous French designer, is the perfume perfume for sportswear. Dawn in the woods, with the clear pungent odor of pines and other woodsy foliage was his inspiration. The most fashionable women of today have adopted this custom of choosing for sports-wear a perfume which catches a whiff of the out of doors. $7.50 an ounce. 50 cents in flacon size.


Illustrated Comœdia - Volume 6,  1913:
"'Toute la Forêt' and 'Nuit de Chine' are Rosine's latest creations. These names, as refined and subtle as the perfumes they designate, are already known to all our elegant Parisians who wrap themselves in the heady scents of these new essences. What can be said of the bottles of such refined taste, of such an original cut, which give refuge to these perfumes? We reproduce, on the fourth page of our cover, these marvels, true works of art worthy of appearing in the collection of ancient or modern trinkets with which every boudoir is adorned."


Bottles:














Bottle: reaction flask blown glass, bulbous base painted "by hand" at Atelier Martine.
Decor bluebells old pink alternating green palm tree, high tubular neck surrounded by metallic gold cord. Circular paper label with red and white background graphics pasted on the base: Height: 14 cm

Fate of the Fragrance:


It was still being sold in 1929 as seen in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico along with other Rosine perfumes:

Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, Chez Poiret, Chypre des Isles, Coeur en Folie, Connais Tu le Pays?, Hahna, Jasmin de la Riviera, Le Balcon, Le Bosquet d'Apollon, Le Coup d'Or, Le Fruit Defendu, La Rose de Rosine, Maharadjah, 1925, Nuit de Chine, Pierrot, Qui Es-Tu?, Sa Chambre, Sakya Mouni, Toute la Foret.."

Finally discontinued in 1930 and remaining stock was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices.

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