Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Coeur en Folie by Rosine c1922

Coeur en Folie by Rosine: launched in 1922. The name means "Heart Madness" also known as "Heart on Fire" in French. The perfume was named after the Folies Bergere performance "Coeur en Folie".


The Rosine perfume Coeur en Folie was formally introduced at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.  



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this composition. It was described as "pungent" so I would surmise it was a spicy floral perfume, most likely dominated by cloves. The composition might have looked a little like this based on various carnation formulas of the same time period:
  • Top notes: bergamot, acacia, jonquil, neroli, rose geranium, pimento, petitgrain
  • Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, orris, cinnamon, violet
  • Base notes: ambergris, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, patchouli, styrax, tolu, benzoin, sandalwood, civet



Bottles:



The absolutely charming perfume bottle was made up of ruby red crystal, in the stylized shape of a human heart, its stopper, molded as a set of little frosted crystal wings meant to "fly to his beloved." The bottle was probably made by either Depinoix and Lefebure, as they made many of Rosine's perfume bottles. The perfume bottle came in two sizes: 
  • 1 3/5" tall and 2.75" across at the widest part of the heart.
  • 2.5" tall and almost 2.5" across at the widest part of the heart.




Honolulu Star Bulletin, 1925:
Coeur en Folie, folly of the heart, is the scent of fascinating mystery from Paul Poiret. This is put up in a whimsical heart-shaped flask."




  













1922 Rosine "Coeur en Folie" perfume bottle in clear glass, green glass stopper corded and sealed, with label, box, and advertising insert, in original tissue printed with all Rosine perfumes, outer card box, sealed in wrapper. 3 3/4 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


It was still being sold in 1929 as seen in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico along with other Rosine perfumes: Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, Chez Poiret, Chypre des Isles, Coeur en Folie, Connais Tu le Pays?, Hahna, Jasmin de la Riviera, Le Balcon, Le Bosquet d'Apollon, Le Coup D'or, Le fruit Defendu,...La Rose de Rosine, Maharadjah, 1935, Nuit de Chine, Pierrot, Qui Es-Tu?, Sa Chambre, Sakya Mouni, Toute la Foret.."





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